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Christian Dior - A Night At the Races (Fashion Wire Daily)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 13:13:00 GMT

FWD101 Model walks the runway at the Christian Dior show during Fall 2010 Fashion Week in Paris on Friday, March 5, 2010.(Fashion Wire Daily/Gruber)

Paris – John Galliano, the Christian Dior creative director, is veritably consistent, but this season with a delightful libertine twist.

In January, Galliano presented a Dior haute couture collection with a rich equestrian theme. His fall 2010 ready-to-wear show on Friday, March 5, in Paris rode off on the same track, but took in pit stops with some elegant daywear and a delightful boudoir moment.

The designer went back to his Anglo roots with this collection, opening with a dashing combo of a saucy silk ruffled dress under an exotic leather cape that cut like a wild trench coat.

Unveiled in a custom-made show tent in the Tuileries Gardens, the collection referenced Monsieur Christian Dior's famous obsession with English riding tweeds. But what's great about Galliano is the way he can take a theme and ride it into all sorts of smart new fashion horizons

While he might show an oversized redingote in burgundy leather, he reinvents it with astrakhan flaps, or send out a perfectly cut mini ruffled cocktail, but produce it in chocolate colored leather.

A shiver of nocturnal misbehavior ran through this collection, many of whose looks featured garters, lacy stockings, ruffled blouses and negligee dresses so transparent that the chic Dior underwear could be seen underneath.

"This season Dior takes up the heroic spirit of French romanticism and Mr. Dior's beloved English riding tweeds, " Galliano explained. "I was inspired by the drape, line and cut as well as the characters of the era. I wanted to create a new luxury, and new lover, in the romance of the seductive libertine of Dior.

The designer also packed plenty of great new accessories into this fashion stable, notably some sure-fire hit riding boots with filigree trim and saddle buckles and a selection of great new tote bags in everything from fur with equestrian hardware to clutches in astrakhan.

Galliano had a triumphant femme fatale finale - models in charmingly disordered hair, attired in skimpy, largely sheer silk asymmetrical gowns and cocktails in dusky pinks and limes. All together, it was a brilliant exposition of racy romanticism at its best.

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Christian Dior - A Night At the Races (Fashion Wire Daily)

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